Prong Setting
In this classic setting, two or more prongs wrap around the crown of a stone to secure it in place. Also known as a claw setting, this mounting style minimizes the amount of metal used, allowing more light to pass through a diamond or gemstone. Four prongs are most desirable for setting princess diamonds, and other cuts with delicate corners.
There are also quite a few options when it comes to the design aspects. You can go for round or square prongs or for stones with pointed corners (Princess, Pear etc), you can go for V-shaped prongs.
You can also change the amount of prongs that you have on your setting, you could keep it traditional a go for a 4 prong, like the one pictured. Or you can go for a six, eight or ten+ prongs, depending on the size and shape of the stone.
Shared Prong Setting
In a variation of the classic prong setting, prongs are wrapped around the crown of a stone to secure it in place. This type of setting minimizes the presence of metal, allowing more light to pass through a diamond or gemstone.
Channel Setting
Diamonds or gemstones are secured in place between vertical metal walls, creating a smooth channel. In this contemporary setting, the stones are nestled side by side with no metal in between.
Channel settings are the most popular choice for eternity rings, not only do they look great but they also offer a lot of protection to the small diamonds often used it eternity rings.
The stones a placed into a channel that has been cut out of the band before metal is pushed over the edges of the stones to hold them in place. As the stone are recessed into the ring, they do not suffer too much abuse on a daily basis. Channel setting mostly use Round Brilliant or Princess cut diamonds.
While this type of setting is often used on eternity rings, it can also be used to set accent stones on the shoulders of other styles of rings.
Bar Channel Setting
Similar to the Channel setting, the Bar setting sees that diamonds are set between bars, where they are first nested in grooves and then overlapped by metal using a hammering tool. Like the Tension setting, this also requires gemstones to have a Hardness level of 9 or above.
Diamonds or gemstones are secured in place between vertical metal walls, creating a smooth channel. In this contemporary setting, the stones are nestled side by side with no metal in between.
Pave Setting
In this dramatically elegant setting type, diamonds or gemstones are set low and very close together using tiny beads. The surface of the ring will appear to be encrusted with stones for a brilliant effect.
Pavé setting is a very popular way of setting small diamonds into jewelry and recently engagement rings. Pavé is a French word that means to cover and area, usually with stones and in jewelry this is often done with diamonds.
The stones are held in by very small prongs that are made when the seats for the diamonds are cut and many times the results look just like small claw settings.
Bezel Setting
A metal rim surrounds a diamond or gemstone by the girdle to secure it in place. This dramatic setting style can create the illusion of a larger stone.
Bezel settings (sometimes called rub-over setting) are one of the most secure settings you can choose as the stone is held in place by metal that has been pushed over the stone.
Bezels also adds some more protection to the stone, which makes it a very good option for softer stones such as Emerald, Tanzanite and Opal.
This means that stones set using this method are far less likely to fall out but one of the downsides, is that due to the nature of the setting, not much light is let in under the stone which can make colored gemstones look darker or diamonds look a bit lifeless.
A popular choice of setting style for cabochons, whether traditional or freeform cut but also a great choice for faceted gemstones and diamonds.
Inset/Flush Setting
This setting is similar to a bezel setting; however, the top (table) of the stone is the only part exposed. Many jewelers set smaller diamonds flush in the band of the ring, creating patterns and highlights to the band.
Flush setting is very popular in men’s rings and wedding as it gives a simple yet clean look. It is also a very secure setting as the stone is held in place by metal that has been pushed over the stone.
This type of setting became very popular after Cartier used it in their love range.
Micro-pavé Setting
Micro-pavé setting is very similar to the pavé setting above, except it is done with very small stones, sometimes as small as 0.5mm. Micro-pavé is often done with rows of small diamonds so that it gives a very sparkly effect.
Due to the stones being so small, the amount of metal holding them in place in minuscule and I generally would not advise using this setting if you are planning to wear the ring every day as the chances of losing a stone are quite high with this type of setting.
Tension Setting
Tension setting is a style that visually looks great as the stone appears to be floating in the piece but it does come with a warning.
A traditional tension setting keeps the stone in place just using the tension of the metal but over time, the metal starts to lose its memory and this can result in the stone falling out.
Many jewelers and designers have alleviated this somewhat by adding a connecting support bar between the two sides of the ring.
While stunning to look at, the practicality of this style of setting means that they aren’t great to wear on a day-to-day basis.
Scallop / Fishtail
These styles are similar to prong setting with a more decorative look.
Solitaire
A solitaire diamond ring is a type of ring that features a single diamond as the centerpiece. In a solitaire diamond ring, the diamond is typically held in place by prongs or a setting that allows the diamond to be the focal point of the ring. Solitaire diamond rings are popular choices for engagement rings because they showcase the beauty and brilliance of a single diamond. They are often simple and classic in design, allowing the diamond to speak for itself.
Shoulder Stones
Rings with shoulder settings have smaller stones (usually diamonds) that run along the band on either side of the centre stone. There are many creative ways that shoulder stones can be positioned on a ring – along a straight band is a classic example, but we can also create a band that splits into two or crosses over on either side of the centre setting. As a general rule, shoulder stones run down the ring from the centre setting to halfway down the band.
Halo
A halo is the term used for a circle of small diamonds (or coloured gemstones) that surround a centre stone. A halo gives the illusion of extra sparkle and is a popular choice for emphasising the size of the centre diamond or gemstone. The halo usually sits tight to the centre stone and contains small diamonds to enhance this illusion. Halo designs look beautiful with or without shoulder diamonds set into the band.
Trilogy
All trilogy diamond rings feature three stones. These are usually laid on the outside of the band with either three diamonds set next to one another in a line or, in some cases, two different gemstones surrounding a centrally positioned diamond. Either way, the trio of stones creates a distinctive look that can encompass numerous styles. Trilogy engagement rings often feature a larger diamond in the middle flanked on either side by two smaller ones.
Five Stone Ring
All Primira Luxury five stone diamond rings feature a quintet of gemstones that are typically arranged in a line to cover the outer part of the finger, thereby generating a shimmering effect of brilliant light. This is achieved because the light that hits any of the diamonds is not only affected by its cut but by that of its neighbor since light passes from one to the next. Some multi stone diamond rings have evenly matched gems mounted into the ring, while others have different designs, perhaps with the central diamond being more prominent
Eternity
An eternity ring is a symbolic and elegant piece of jewelry, characterized by a continuous line of gemstones encircling the entire band. Each stone is carefully set to create an unbroken circle, symbolizing everlasting love, unity, and commitment, making it an ideal gift for significant milestones such as anniversaries or the birth of a child. In this design, the stones — typically diamonds, as seen in the Primira Luxury cut eternity ring shown in the picture — are identical in shape and size, ensuring a harmonious and balanced look from every angle. The Primira Luxury cut, with its geometric facets and vintage-inspired appeal, adds a unique brilliance and depth to the ring, catching light beautifully from every facet.
Cluster
As a slight deviation from a halo, a cluster design tends to have larger diamonds surrounding the centre stone. There is more of an emphasis on the surrounding stones, making a cluster more of a statement than a halo. Clusters and haloes are usually categorised together however they are slightly different.
Vintage
Examples of vintage designs can be found in any of the above categories, but certain features distinguish them from modern designs. Intricate details such as scrolls, flourishes, filigree, engraving and millgrain finishes with grain set diamonds on the shoulders are features to consider for antique style appeal. These features will be elaborated on in the settings and finishing touches sections of this guide.
Cathedral Style
This style has been given this name because it mimics the curves and arches often seen in the ceilings and roof trusses of cathedrals. A cathedral design will have shoulders that sweep upwards from the band creating curved, triangular openings either side of the setting.
Prong Type
Prongs refer to the metal that secures the center gemstone atop the setting. They are an essential feature in the overall look of a ring and a critical feature in ensuring your center stone stays put.
Bead
Prongs with rounded beads at the tips, providing security and decorative detail.
Claw
Prongs resembling claws, securely holding and showcasing the center stone
Six Prong
Six individual prongs for enhanced stability and presentation.
Compass
Prongs positioned at cardinal points around the center stone, resembling a compass.
Bezel
Center stone encircled by a metal trim, offering protection and a modern look.
Semi Bezel
Variation of the bezel setting where the center stone is partially encircled by metal, combining protection with visibility.
Paddle Prong
Prongs shaped like paddles, securely holding the stone with a minimal, uniform design.
Multi Prong
Setting with more than six prongs, offering added security and sometimes intricate designs.
Center Gemstone Setting
The center gemstone setting, commonly referred to as the 'head' in ring anatomy, is the metal that connects the prongs to the shank of the design, keeping the center stone in place. Beyond security, the center gemstone setting determines how high or low your ring will sit on your finger.
Basket
These low settings feature prongs that secure the gemstone in a basket shape, optimizing the amount of light that passes through the gem.
Trellis
A trellis setting features an interwoven head that creates an elegant design and secures the gemstone low in a basket.
Integrated
Integrated heads are cast as one continuous piece of metal and typically sit lower and more flush with bands than peg heads.
Peg
Peg heads are soldered separately onto the shank, typically holding the diamond higher than integrated heads.
Cathedral
In a cathedral setting, elegant archways (often called shoulders) gently taper upward towards the center gem.
Accent Gemstone Setting
The accent gemstone setting refers to how other accents besides the center gemstone are set. These accents could be along the band of a ring, surprise elements that rest on the inner edge of the band, or a hidden halo underneath the head.
Pavé
In this intricate setting type, gemstones are set closely together for a dazzling, diamond-encrusted look. The gemstones are held securely in place by small beads of precious metal.
Scalloped Pavé
This technique features metal beads with small U-shaped cutouts, creating a scalloped effect, and are seen as split prongs from the top.
French Pavé
In French pavé settings the metal beads securing the diamonds feature a small V-shaped cutout underneath each diamond, and are seen as split prongs from the top.
Shared Prong
With a shared prong setting, adjacent gemstones share precious metal prongs which allows more light to pass through and increases their brilliance and fire.
Single Shared Prong
Adjacent gemstones are held in place by a single shared prong, minimizing metal shown and allowing maximum visibility of the stones.
Bezel
A bezel setting features a gemstone that is fully encircled by a thin border of precious metal, which holds the gem securely in place.
Channel
A channel setting features gemstones gracefully set between two parallel walls of precious metal for a smooth, elegant look.
Flush
Accent gems are set into the band so only the top of the gem is visible and the rings surface is smooth and even.
Bar
A bar setting is a variation on the channel setting in which gems are held securely in place between parallel vertical channels.
Types of Bands
The ring shank, commonly called the band, is the part of the ring that encircles the finger. It's an important design element that affects both the appearance of the ring and how it feels to the wearer.
Flat
Flat bands feature angular edges and sleek, flat outer surfaces.
Comfort Fit
Comfort fit bands feature a rounded inside edge for increased comfort and wearability.
Knife Edge
A knife edge features two gently slanted sides that meet at a point on the exterior of the band creating a sleek and elegant look.
Rounded
A rounded or half-round band features a subtly domed or softened outer surface.
Double Band
An engagement ring design featuring two parallel bands that may run alongside each other or intersect at points, providing a unique and often modern aesthetic.
Finishing Details
Precious metal details are a great way to add interest or embellishment to your ring. Finishing details can affect the ring's overall appearance, giving it either a more contemporary or vintage look.
High Polish
A finish on the metal of an engagement ring that results in a smooth and reflective surface, giving the ring a shiny and lustrous appearance.
Matte/Brushed/Satin
Featuring a soft, non-reflective quality with varying levels of texture, these finishes are popular with those going for a distinctive, vintage look.
Filigree
An exquisite vintage design element where small threads of precious metal create artistic, lacy designs.
Milgrain
This delicate beaded detailing is popular in vintage and antique style jewelry.
Hammered
Soft indentations are formed into the precious metal surface adding visual texture. This finishing detail is great for active lifestyles as it easily disguises wear and tear over time.
Engraved
Hand engraving is done by a jeweler who hand carves designs into the precious metal. Each hand engraving is unique as no two are exactly the same.